Outback LED Headlight Winpower "Blade" Turn-Signal Style The Blade type is credited to Winpower and the Blob type credited to Hireno. These appear to be two unique housing designs, with the turn signals, led positions/size/layout, and chrome fin shapes all being different. Other than the shape of the signal light, they differ in the number of small LEDs surrounding the outer light as well: the Blade has 16 LEDs while the Blob has 12. Within the "Outback LED" design, there are two variants: the "Blade" turn-signal, and the "Blob" turn-signal (made up names, not officially called these). If you're brave or electrical savvy, you can attempt the wiring changes needed like Unsp0ken did, but either way I thought I'd share my findings if it's new information to anyone. As testa stated, it's almost certain that these are non-USDM spec, so the connector is not plug and play. I did a little more digging on the so called "Outback LED Lights" and found that there's two versions even within that style as well. All feedback is greatly No, I unfortunately am still on stock lights until next year likely when money permits. Who has what of these, and what has your experience been so far? I apologize if these exact questions have been answered before, I did some searching and couldn't find what I was looking for. I've seen plenty of U-bar lights on the forums, but physically, they look almost identical, so I'm unsure who has which. These would be my preferred option style-wise, but I am looking to find out if there's any particular reason I should opt for the ANZOs over the Eagle Eyes, and if there's an particular reasons to avoid the Eagle Eyes. From everything I can tell, the Eagle Eyes are a Taiwanese clone of the ANZOs, priced about $300-$400 lower. This option is more of a check to see who has what and what their experiences have been.
![eagle eye lights eagle eye lights](https://mudflaps.com/images/M143947832.jpg)
This package popped up with both lights and 6k HID conversions included for only about $245 - Įagle Eyes vs. They look virtually identical from what I can tell, same price point too. I am unsure the difference between the OEMassive and DTMoto options.
![eagle eye lights eagle eye lights](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/7c/e5/b1/7ce5b1781ca3f3958c8978409245328b.jpg)
I have not seen anybody on the forums with these yet to confirm fitment and quality, and am heavily considering taking the plunge on these to report back with, considering I can afford them pretty much straight away the next time I go on call at work, and would be easier to bounce back from if they turn out to be poor quality.Īnother caveat of these is that if I find out they're actually good build and fit, I could probably sell them without too much trouble to upgrade to the U-Bars in the future. These options popped up recently as an extremely affordable replacement option to get black headlights. I'll start out by saying that the U-Bar would be my preferred style choice, but are more cost-prohibitive. Considering the actual wattage draw of the 9w Eagle Eyes is about 1.8w, You'd have to have a couple of dozen of them at LEAST and leave them oh for several hours to cause any issues.Black housing headlights are an upgrade I want to do in the near future to my car, and being that I lack the tools, know-how and confidence to modify them myself, I was looking for some feedback on the various swap-in options I've run across. Snug, not full-on tight is the key here.Īs to the Eagle Eyes running down the battery, I accidentally left the dash/courtesy lights on overnight on more than one occasion (6pcs of 9w Eagle Eye) and it didn't slow down the battery a bit - now, I have also left the 180w CREE light bar on my G16 on for about an hour to light up a project I was working on out in the woods, and THAT made a dent in the starting power (although not enough to keep the cart from starting).
![eagle eye lights eagle eye lights](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71AD2r8awxL._SL1417_.jpg)
Regular nut that comes with the light is fine, but I always use a stainless lock washer too - be careful tightening the nut though as the threads are plastic and can be stripped fairly easily. A rubber grommet would be fine, or even a simple rubber or neoprene washer would give you the vibration dampening you're looking for. I use either 20 or 22 gauge hookup wire (available anywhere, Lowes, Depot, Autozone, even Walmart) for the lower-powered LED's and it works fine.Īs to heat, these Eagles really don't get as warm as the higher powered LED's and they have a small aluminum heatsink molded into them, so I have never felt the need to isolate them. Run from the fuse to the switch, then back to the red wire on your lights.
![eagle eye lights eagle eye lights](https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1qlWbXgfH8KJjy1zcq6ATzpXaZ/9W-12V-24V-18MM-LED-Eagle-Eye-Light-Car-Fog-DRL-Daytime-Reverse-Parking-Signal.jpg)
As to getting your power from the fuse panel, YES that's the best way to go (I'd forgotten that You have a Workhorse which has the fuse box).